God Bless the Man who Invented Nature

Regular followers of your favourite blogger will know that I am a soft touch when it comes to visiting parks and gardens. Some of the designs that people come up with are truly wonderful,. Combine this with what nature can do and the effects can be remarkable.

 

So it will come as little surprise that a recent visit to Hong Kong saw me wending my way on yet another visit to Central to soak up my regular infusion of nature at its best.

 

Hong Kong has more than its fair share of parks and open spaces – which often surprises first time visitors; but one of the best is Hong Kong Park (香港公园) which was, until 1979, the British Victoria Barracks. Covering 80,000 square metres – about eight hectares – it was built at a cost of $398 million and opened in May 1991 by Sir David Wilson, the Governor of Hong Kong at the time.
 

It’s only a five minute hike away from the Central MTR station (take the Charter Garden exit) and just below the Peak Tram terminus. Throughout the park, water is a dominant feature and you’ll find no shortage of waterfalls, streams, ponds and cliffs made of artificial rocks. What it lacks, however, is a single lawn… but don’t let that put you off.

 

 

When they built the park, they didn’t simply flatten all the old garrison buildings built between 1842 and 1910, thank goodness. Today the buildings still include the former residence of the Commander-in-Chief of the British Armed Forces, known as Flagstaff House, Rawlinson House which is a marriage registry, Wavell House – an Education Centre, and Cassels – formerly the barracks for married British officers, but which today accommodates the Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre.

 

Flagstaff House itself was built in 1846, but since 1984 has housed the Museum of Teaware. It’s certainly the grandest of the buildings, and even if you don’t find a museum devoted to tea that interesting, it’s probably still worth a visit, especially as there is no entrance fee!

 

 

A photograph from 1897 shows that the building, with its wide verandas and numerous columns, has changed very little over the past century…

 

 

To be perfectly honest, the tea museum isn’t that exciting – not a patch on similar museums in mainland China. It has a so-so collection of porcelain and tea related antiques, it explains the tea manufacturing processes and also regularly hosts tea tasting sessions in the K.S. Lo Gallery.

 

It also puts on various exhibitions such as a “Teaware by Hong Kong Potters 2013” show which runs through till 2014.

 

I rather liked this wood carving which represents ‘good health through fortune wealth and longevity’. In the centre is the Chinese character for tea which represents good health by drinking tea regularly. Bats can be found at the corners, since the word for bat in Chinese sounds like the word for fortune (the Chinese are into homophones big time!); while you can see deers (which sound like the word for wealth) in the left and right lower bottom corners. At the top and bottom are cranes – the symbol for longevity.

 

 

The tea pot designs in the special exhibition have some fun elements… such as this one of a bird sticking its head through the pot with what looks like a crab apple in its beak.

 

 

Or how about this one representing rubber ducks in a bath, all on the lid of the tea pot, with a tap forming the spout.

 

 

Incidentally, if you are into birds in a big way, then you could consider joining the regular bird watching fraternity who meet here every Wednesday morning from 8:00 a.m. to 10:00 a.m. – again, free of charge.

 

I mentioned the theme of water throughout the park; and at its centre is an artificial lake and a waterfall, which were built on the site of a tennis court of the former garrison.

 

 

Actually it’s not just one waterfall, but a number of waterfalls and rockpools which are home to a colony of turtles that spend their days lounging around on the rocks. The park is also home to a colony of Tai Chi followers whom you will see if you can get up early enough and make it to the park just after dawn (not something I am good at – hence no pictures!)

 

 

A bit further on there is what is known as Olympic Square, which, the blurb claims, is reminiscent of an ancient Greek amphitheatre. Hmmm – well, it seats 880 people and is used for concerts, plays, promotional events, sports, and various other entertainments.

 

 

Much as the grounds themselves are lovely to walk around, for me the icing on the cake is the presence of two major facilities, namely the Conservatory and the Aviary.

 

The 1,400 square metre conservatory is apparently one of the largest in Southeast Asia and is well worth a wander through. It's divided into three sections: the Display Plant House, the Dry Plant House and the Humid Plant House; and as you’d expect a range of climatic conditions are simulated so that visitors can experience everything from a tropical rain forest to an arid desert... with a little imagination thrown in!

 

There’s a semi-permanent orchid exhibition which is marked temporary, but has been there for as long as I can remember. Who can fail to love these Orchidaceae Phalaenopsis Hybridae, I ask myself!

 

 

Or for cactus lovers, there is a wonderful display of Echinocactus Grusonii – or Golden Barrel for normal people!

 

 

And possibly because it’s China National Day coming up, someone has thoughtfully arranged these Gymnocalycium Friedrichii with the colours of the national flag.

 

 

If the conservatory is a crowd puller, then even more so is the aviary – named after Sir Edward Youde, who served as Governor of Hong Kong for four years in the 1980s. The aviary features more than 80 species of birds in a tropical ‘rainforest’ that you can wander through. But before you enter, you pass a number of cages for some of the less sociable birds, or those who need special privileges … such as this White Crested Hornbill.

 

 

As you enter the EY Aviary, you prance over a designer-walkthrough facility that takes you up to the tree canopy along elevated walkways, with birds flying around the complex with gay abandon. The stainless steel construction is itself a work of art; but throw in the birds fluttering around you and it’s fabulous. There are a number of these white birds flitting all over the place (I have no idea what they are called – can anyone help?).

 

 

My favourite in this hotch potch collection is the Bule-throated Barbet which gorges itself on melon and oranges.

 

 

But even this plain looking vulture look-alike is rather cute – again I have no idea what it is!

 

 

OK, so the Hong Kong Park is quite spectacular, so we can assume that The Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens should be even better, no? errr…. Unfortunately, no.

 

The HKZBG (香港動植物公園) boasts that it is bigger than HK Park, occupying an area of 5.6 hectares … Hold on, I thought the latter was 8 hectares??? Oh well. Whatever.

 

It was founded in 1871 as a Botanic Garden and renamed in 1975 “to reflect the increased commitments to zoological exhibits”. Construction works, we are told, started in 1860 and the first stage was opened to the public in 1864. … Hold on, I thought it opened in 1871? As above… ditto.

 

Anyway, it is still one of the oldest zoological and botanical centres in the world by anyone’s calculations.

 

The Garden is divided into two parts by Albany Road, but linked by a subway. The eastern part of the Garden is known as the Old Garden where you’ll find a Children's Playground, Aviaries, Green House and a Fountain Terrace Garden. The New Garden in the west is mainly the home of mammals and reptiles.

 

But though there are more than 1,000 species in the Garden – mostly indigenous to tropical and sub-tropical regions – it simply isn’t a patch on the Park. Yes, you can feast your eyes on members of the major plant groups such as Conifer, Fig, Palm, Gum Trees, Magnolia, Camellia, Azalea, Philodendron and other native flora. The Dawn Red-wood, the local Ailanthus, Crapnell's Camellia, Grantham's Camellia and Yellow Camellia, we are told, provide rarity.

 

The Norfolk Island Pine, Travellers-tree, Royal Palm, Asoka Tree, Forest Grey Gum and the Elephant Apple provide distinctive features in form, leaf-shape, bark and fruit. And the Garden is frequently filled with the fragrance of Roses, Mock Lime, Orange-jessamine, Kwai-fah, Chinese Privet and the White Jade Orchid Tree.

 

But after the Park, it ranks a definite second place, in my book… which I suppose serves me right for going to the Park first. You’d think I’d have learned my lesson by now!

 

 

Even the bronze statue of King George VI, erected in commemoration of the 100th anniversary of British colonial rule over Hong Kong is scarcely given a second look. But almost all the collections look tired and badly in need of a good dollop of renovation. The information provided about the poor animals is minimal. The aviaries are difficult to look into due to the type of wire mesh used. And looking at the plants one gets a feeling of déjà vu after wandering through the Park.

 

Most of the animals are half asleep, and they have little space in which to run around. The birds' exhibit is made up of only a few cages and some of the other exhibits such as the reptiles are closed.
 

OK, maybe I’m sounding like a spoiled brat now. But I have to admit that my favourite sight in the HKZBG was the no smoking signs!

 

 

The keeping of wild animal exhibits date back to 1876, when they were kept in small numbers in very primitive structures. But following the major expansion in the mid-1970s, emphasis were directed to the latest techniques in captive breeding and conservation programmes. About 400 birds, 70 mammals and 50 reptiles are now being housed in about 40 enclosures.

 

Providing a splash of colour – if you can force your eyes through the thick cage fencing – are the American Flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber ruber) which are here in abundance.

 

 

Even more red are the Scarlet Ibis (Eudocimus Ruber) – well I suppose they would be given their name, wouldn’t they.

 

 

There is a handful of mammals, though the official blurb tell us that the size of the Garden precludes the keeping of very large Mammal species such giraffes. (I think I would call that an understatement!) And prepare to weep … Two Chinese Alligators passed away recently just four months apart from one another.

 

I quite enjoyed the lonely Siamang (Hulobates Syndactylus) jumping around his cage – though at the same time felt sorry for him. What a life having to stare back at the rubber-neckers staring at you all day long! Apparently Siamengs advertise their territorial rights with loud calls audible for at least a kilometre, though this old guy had obviously given up claiming his cage as his very own. Can’t say I blame him.

 

 

So the lesson to be learned form all of this is that if you intend to visit the two places on the same holiday, go visit the Zoological gardens first. That way you won’t be able to compare the two and be forever disappointed as you look for something positive to say about it.

 

But at the end of the day, both establishments are free entry and how many places these days can boast that? Time for your favourite blogger to start showing a bit of gratitude to the powers that be in HK, methinks.

 

OK, I am duly chastised and thoroughly ashamed of myself. (But I’d still give the HKZBG a miss!)

 

Can One Ever Get Fed Up With Gold?

One of the great things about Hong Kong that comes as a surprise to many first time visitors is that there are so many things to do and see in the SAR. The Hong Kong Tourist Board has for a long time done a sterling job of publishing leaflets and maps for tourists, and you can pick them up as you exit the baggage hall at HK airport, as well as in touristy places such as at Tsim Sha Tsui.
 

But one thing that has always mystified me is the lack of inclusion in the HKTB’s publications of, for me, one of the best things to go and see: The Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery, or 萬佛寺– Man Fat Tszi in Chinese. There are plenty of temples and monasteries to see in Hong Kong, but I can guarantee that no others are like this one! The Big Buddha with its cable car on Lantau gets much more attention, but the Ten Thousand Buddhas wins hands down, as far as I am concerned.
 

It’s incredibly easy to get to and is less that 10 minutes walk from Sha Tin (沙田) station on the East Rail Line of the MTR. You leave Sha Tin MTR by exit B and turn left along the side of the bus terminal. Walk down the ramp and after a couple of minutes, you reach a turning opposite HomeSquare Mall. Turn left down Pai Tau Street and walk to the end.

 

You’ll see a white temple-looking building ahead of you which is NOT what you are after!

 

It’s quite cute in its own way, but this is Po Fook Hill Ancestral Halls where mourners burn incense in honour of deceased relatives, and it is not meant to be a tourist attraction.

 

To its right, next to the parking lot, you’ll see a path which is what you should be heading for. If you have your eyes peeled you might even catch sight of a small sign which confirms you are on the right track…

 

You are quite likely to see what look like monks begging in the area around the monastery, especially at the start of this path, but don’t be fooled. The Hong Kong Buddhist Association confirms that genuine monks are not allowed to beg here, and further up there are signs warning you of this.
 

One very monk-looking scam artist came up to me and insisted on shaking my hand and started to make small talk, before touching on the fact that he would be so grateful if I could give him some food, or donate some money if I didn’t have any food. I told him to take a hike and carried on walking!

 

Now for the quirky fact that the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery is not an actual monastery at all, as there are no resident monks there, but this doesn’t detract from its attractions one iota. It was built by a devout Buddhist layman called Yuet Kai, who was born into a wealthy family in Kunming in southern China in 1878.  When he was 19 he decided to dedicate his life to Buddhism and in 1933, aged 55 he moved to Hong Kong to preach Buddhism in a local monastery. He planned to establish a Buddhist college when he accepted an estate from another pious Buddhist who was also a rich merchant. Sixteen years later he decided instead to found a monastery and so began the construction of the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery.
 

It took eight years to complete all the buildings and another ten years to finish the 12,800 Buddha statues. Construction was finished in 1957. Today, the Main Temple and the Pagoda of the Monastery are graded as Grade III Historic Buildings. If you’re wondering why it is called 10,000, when in reality there are many more Buddha statues, it is because in Cantonese tradition “ten thousand” simply represents a figurative term for an extremely large number!
 

Anyway, back to the entrance path, which actually is a steep uphill climb of 431 steps to the lower terraces of the Monastery. It takes some 20 minutes and some people who aren’t in great physical shape can find it exhausting. On both sides of the path are loads of golden Buddhas, each one unique and in a different pose.

 

Don’t be surprised if you see some really devout people kneeling down every three steps or so as they make their way up the hill.

 

The Buddhas, come in all shapes and sizes. Some are fat, some thin; some are bald while others are hairy; some hold musical instruments, while others hold interesting objects, not all of which are easy to fathom out.

 

A quick calculation lets me know that for each of the 431 steps up the hill you will get to see around 30 Buddha statues in all, which I guess can’t be a bad deal!

 

Along the path these 500 gold-painted plastic statues represent the experience of enlightenment, known as Arhan statues. Each face is entertaining or insane, depending on your view point. There’s even one which has small arms coming out of his eyes, which has to make it one of the weirdest in the whole complex.

 

As you go higher and higher, the number of statues increases and they get more fantastical too. 

This one appears to be telling the visitors that there is only a little bit more foot slogging to go…

 

… while this smug one obviously thinks he is quite a clever dick riding on the back of a peacock.

 

Eventually I reach the first of the two main levels, which are made up of two groups of architectural structures. On the lower level is the Main Hall (the actual 10,000 Buddha temple), together with a pagoda, two pavilions and a tower; on the upper level are four halls
 

In 1968 the monastery underwent substantial renovations when many of the statues were coated with pure gold. But almost 30 years later some of the buildings were damaged by landslides causing the site to be closed for over two years of reconstruction.

In the Main Hall you find the 12,800 tiny Buddha statuettes, but though they are small, they are still impressive. Again, each one is unique and they were made by Shanghai craftsmen and donated by worshippers over the decades.

 

Surrounding the entrance to this temple, yet more gold paint… this time covering the animals of the Chinese zodiac – such as this tiger, which represents your favourite blogger’s birth year.

 

 

Here’s a golden rat, which is meant to be auspicious for wealth seeking believers.

 

Between the Main Hall and the Pagoda you will find 18 painted, life-sized “Luohan” representing Buddha’s most important students.

On this plateau, apart from the temple, there is plenty more to see. Next the hall is a vegetarian café which many have commented as being quite good, offering Cantonese snacks and tea, though it didn’t appeal to me, I’m afraid. Apparently it is open every day except Thursday.

 

Filipino visitors seem to be picked out for discrimination by signs written only in Tagalog. Apparently they have a reputation for using the temple grounds as a picnic spot which the powers that be take a dim view of!

 

There are also signs warning everyone not to feed the monkeys, since the Sha Tin area and its surrounding hills are known as the home of wild monkeys. I never got to see a monkey, though, apart from one of the gilded statuettes.

 

Connoisseurs of historical bank notes may well do a double take when they set eyes on the nine-storey pagoda, for which the monastery is also known.  It achieved fame when the Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation featured it on their 1985-1992 issue HK$100 note.

 

Beyond the pagoda is a pavilion with Wen Shu riding on a blue lion.

 

while to its side you can also see a white elephant belonging to Pu Xian – the Lord of Fire.

 

My favourite statue in the temple grounds, however, is this one of Guanyin with the Thousand Arms given to her to let her reach out to those in need.

 

Moving on to the upper deck of the monastery complex, you find even more life-sized Arhan statues, and a few more temples as well, featuring mythological scenes and more miniatures. Reconstruction is still ongoing up here though. Perhaps the most impressive statues are these Arhans scattered across a knoll overlooking the city.

 

And staring down onto them is an ivory white Kwun Yam statue – a goddess riding a dragon who holds a .red orb in his throat

 

The poor tigers seem to get a pretty raw deal from these golden statues – I felt quite sorry for this little Tigger who doesn’t appear to be a happy bunny, despite sticking his tongue out at his tormenter.

 

This Tig appears somewhat less accommodating and you can find him in a mini temple which also features a deity sitting on a large black horse.

 

After a while you might find yourself getting somewhat tired of this excess of gold paint; but worry not – there are also loads of bonsai trees scattered around the grounds for your enjoyment…

 

… not to mention the panoramic vistas over Sha Tin and the New Territories.

 

Admission to the Monastery is free and it is open every day from 9am to 5.30pm, unless there is heavy rain. Allow about an hour to 90 minutes to enjoy all there is to see here.